Descrizione

Paperback. 4to. (30 x 23 cm). In English. 199 p., color and b/w ills. Tailors to the Court: M. Palma - D. Lena - P. Parma. "The company belonged to M. Palma & Sons and records included the period between 1897 and 1902. The second ledger, however, covered the period between 1902-1923, when M. Parma was employed as the Director of, and eventually the proprietor of the company and finally wound up the business. Parma workshop's garments were made for the palace and the wealthy and the trousers, jackets, waistcoats, raincoats and suchlike civilian clothes reflected the late period European fashion. The exhibition included prime examples of this phenomenon in the form of various garments that belonged to Sultan Abdülhamid II., his sons; Prince Mehmed Abid and Prince Ahmed Nurettin. The uniforms that belonged to Tevfik Pasha, the latest Minister-in Chief, that were made by Parma workshop indicated that at the point of Sultan's appointing the ministers the fashion has changed in favour of wearing uniforms instead of the traditional ornamented Kaftans [Khil'at]. Some of the exhibited dark navy jackets with broad scarlet stripes, such as the ones that belonged to Mahmud Muhtar Pasha were completely in line with the latest fashion of the European Uniforms.". Contents: - The palace organizations responsible for preparing and preserving the garments of the sultans: The ehl-i hiref, tailors and members of the Has Oda, Hazine and Seferli corps - Westernization in the era of Mahnnid II and the Western tailors who worked for the palace - A levantine tailor's workshop: A brief history of the Parma atelier - A late 19th century tailor's workshop order book the first ledger (1897-1902): Maison M Palma & Fils, D Lena Successeur - The second ledger (1902-1923): Parma workshop Tailoring supplies from the workshop - The Parma atelier's work for the palace Conclusion - Appendix: Registers of tailors, Topkapi Palace Museum Archive D. 733 - Bibliography - Index.